Written this time last week on Yom Kippur, the Jewish day of atonement, on which you’re supposed to fast and reflect upon the year of sins and successes you’ve had.
Today, I became surely the only Jew in the whole entire world to simultaneously fast for religious reasons and bake a kugel. Would this feast of contradiction succeed in helping me get my name written into the Book of Life under any other circumstances? Probably not. Did I earn myself any points by turning on the lights, carrying my notebook the five blocks to this coffee shop, or even putting pen to paper, all activities very much forbidden today, the holiest and least fun day of the Jewish year, Yom Kippur? No, no I did not. And yet, this is still the most observant Yom Kippur I’ve ever had.
Sleep the morning away to ignore the hunger, then awake suddenly at noon with the overwhelming desire for noodle kugel, a sweet noodle pudding dish that’s a mixture of eggs, noodles, cottage cheese, and brown sugar.
Yom Kippur, for those of you of the non-Chosen persuasion (“My, she gets haughty when she gets hungry,” you hear yourself thinking), is the Day of Atonement, on which Jews from all over the world turn off their cell phones and laptops, refrain from eating, and flock to temple. It’s a day on which Jews, normally the world’s largest consumers of the natural resource we like to call guilt, outdo themselves altogether and feel bad about every wrong they’ve committed over the last 12 months.
Put off the desire for kugel as long as you can, ultimately reason that you won’t want to make it after 25 hours of fasting, and head to the grocery store.
It is forbidden to eat on this day: all sects of Judaism can agree on this. It is also universally agreed that Jews should go to temple, whether it’s to pray penitently or simply to catch up on a year’s worth of gossip. As you “level-up” between sects the keys to unlocking the Book of Life become progressively harder: if you’re reform, you hang out at temple with your friends for a few hours. If you’re conservative, you are required to make an appearance at synagogue and sit quietly through the dull service. You may drive your car to get there, but so help you if you use your GPS to find the synagogue or check your email on your iPhone between prayers. On the other hand, if you’re Orthodox, you are only required to attend synagogue if you can walk there, and are expressly forbidden from attending if you can’t. Forget your laptop: you can’t even sign your name. Better you should sleep and read at home.
Wander the colorful aisles of PCC, your neighborhood co-op, past hard-boiled eggs and turkey sandwiches and peaches threatening to slip out of season at any moment until you find the egg noodles and cottage cheese you need. Check out as quickly as you can to return to the comfort of home, where the food is at least out of sight.
Why go through all this, which can only be described as rigamarole, on even the most lax level? What is the Book of Life, anyway, and what makes you so sure you want your John Hancock in it? Some people observe Yom Kippur to ascribe to the Jewish tradition once a year. Others do it to use a food-less, distraction-less day to honestly reflect on the sins and successes of the past year. Some do it because they think they’re supposed to. The Book of Life, by the way, was rarely mentioned in the reform prayer services of my youth, or at least not in the few moments I was actually paying attention in temple between trips to the bathroom to gossip with my friends and whispered fights with my mother about said trips. And lo and behold, I can’t Wikipedia the definition because, for possibly the first time in recorded history, I am without a laptop or phone. Or food. Or electrical appliances. Or a car. Or even a service to go to, because there aren’t any within walking distance.
Parboil the egg noodles, guessing when they’re almost al dente. Realize you’ve set yourself up for an afternoon of cooking without tasting and pause, knowing you’ve never tried anything quite like this before.
Has the world turned upside-down? Blair, who can at very best be described as “Jew-lite” the other 364 days of the year, is acting unbelievably Orthodox for Yom Kippur? I know. It’s weirding me out too. I can’t quite explain what changed this year, especially since I wasn’t even sure I was going to observe the holiday on Friday. Being steeped in Judaism at the Jewish Federation for 40 hours a week for the last year and a half might have something to do with it. Tradition has always been somewhat of a motivator for me. But what I actually think did me in was hearing yesterday that non-Jews fast with Jews as a sign of solidarity in Israel. I knew the entire country shut down for the holiday, but this show of harmony in a country so ridden with cultural strife really resonated with me. So I decided to go ahead and fast for the day, and with this decision came a completely nonsensical series of observed and unobserved traditions.
Whip the eggs and add the brown sugar, stopping to wonder whether it will be sweet enough with a cup and a half of sugar or whether you should go for two. Know that your desire to taste the mixture comes from a quest for culinary accuracy and excellence instead of honest hunger, and marvel for a moment at that temporary transition.
I felt strongly about fasting, but that was only going to begin after I’d finished my meal of Puetro Rican food followed by gelato (sundown: 7:15. Actual beginning of fasting: 9ish). I wanted to spend the day truly reflecting on the last year, which meant distractions were out. No iPhone, no laptop, no movies, no music. This included no driving, even to go to synagogue, which I think equals out on the penitent scale. Turning on the lights, showering, carrying a purse to and from the grocery store, making a kugel and writing were all inexplicably allowed on my moronic morality scale. Cooking was excused only because I decided around noon that I needed to eat kugel to break my fast, and there isn’t a lot of kugel to be found around these parts.
Add the cottage cheese and wish you could lick the spatula, reconciling your desire not to waste food against religious observance.
I excused writing because I honestly felt that it remained in the spirit of reflection. I thought that, if nothing else, spending the day hungry and bored would create a good space for thinking, and I was right. I should’ve expected that it was going to be a day devoted to thinking about food.
Pour the custard over the noodles and add them all to your biggest casserole dish. Try not to scoop up what’s left in the bowl with your finger.
It’s been a big year for me and food. Bryce and I started this food blog, and with it I began to formalize my relationship with food. Caring about something enough to ruminate on it and write those thoughts down is an important demonstration of a relationship: my posts on this blog represent love letters as much as anything else, even in my culinary mishaps. Through this formalization has also come a redefinition of its terms: to love food isn’t just to eat it, but to eat it respectfully, thoughtfully, and specifically. I’ve learned, indeed taught myself, how to eat only until I’m full, and how not to waste calories on food I won’t enjoy. This has resulted in a girl who has lost more than 10% of her starting weight, thereby achieving the goal set out on this blog: I am PCOS symptom-free and well-within the weight percentile for my height and age. That feels pretty damn great, and feels so good, in fact, that I wouldn’t be willing to trade it for a life of eating whatever I want. If I haven’t accomplished a single other thing this year, it would be enough.
Instead, do the dishes, and watch all the leftover bits and pieces swirl down the drain.
But it’s not the only thing I’ve accomplished! Writing consistently about food has made me realize how much I like, well, consistently writing about food. To be a food writer wouldn’t be such a bad thing, and I guess I am, even if it’s only my mother reading this thing. I’m open to book contracts whenever.
Sit and read for an hour while the kugel’s sweet smell steals its way into your kitchen, your clothes, and your thoughts.
On smaller level, today has been about exploring what it feels like to be consistently and sustainably hungry. In a life punctuated by food, whether it’s from taking a break from work to eat lunch or rewarding myself after a long day with a mouthwatering food book, my days contain an awful lot of food. To go without all that on purpose is interesting, as will the sensation of eating to honestly assuage hunger, as I’m about to do in an hour or two. When’s the last time I really did that? Probably the last time I fasted for Yom Kippur. The idea that an entire religion’s worth of people is consciously experiencing hunger simultaneously is significant, and almost more than hunger advocates across the world could hope for. It’s no accident that this is the time of year for Jewish food drives to crop up all over the world, and indeed the experience has motivated me to sort through my cupboards and pull some canned food to donate. I encourage you all to do the same.
Pull the kugel from the oven after it bakes for an hour: it’s set up perfectly. Grab your notebook and run out the door before the urge to eat it overwhelms your piety and don’t return for any reason whatsoever until after sundown.
Does any of the above reflection fall into the categories of sin or absolution? Maybe not. But viewing my life over the last year through the lens of food has been really important to me. Perhaps not important enough to be written into the Book of Life, who knows?
Noodle Kugel
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen
1 pound wide egg noodles
8 eggs
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
2 pounds full-fat cottage cheese, creamed or large curd
1 1/2 sticks melted butter
2 teaspoons vanilla
Dash of salt
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Parboil your egg noodles until almost cooked, about 5-7 minutes depending on your brand.
In a large bowl beat eggs until fluffy (or for a while). Add the sugar gradually and stir until incorporated, then add cottage cheese, then melted butter, then vanilla and salt. Pour this mixture over drained, parboiled noodles and add the entire gooey mess to an unbuttered 9×13 baking dish.
Pop your kugel in the oven for anywhere between an hour and an hour and a half, until it no longer jiggles when you shake it. Imprecise, I realize, but there you go. If you hate crunchy noodles on top (like me), cover the kugel with foil before you put it in the oven.















